Visitors to Fiddletown might find it difficult to
imagine this quiet hamlet along the banks of Dry Creek populated by several
thousand people—as it was during the Gold Rush. Settled by Missouri
immigrants in 1848, the town served as a trade and social center for nearby
mining camps.
According to local legend, Fiddletown was so named
because in late 1848 a group of Missouri prospectors had started their
diggings there and were stopped by heavy rains. During the weeks
of waiting for the weather to clear, they passed the time fiddling and
swapping yarns.
Located on the northern edge of Amador County, Fiddletown
today has shrunk to a handful of residences, a general store, an old schoolhouse,
a community hall adorned with a large fiddle above the entrance, and several
historic structures. One of these structures, known as the Chew Kee
Store, provides one of the strongest remaining links to Chinese history
in the Mother Lode.
During a time of economic and political hardship
in China, news of the Gold Rush in California lured tens of thousands of
Chinese, many seeking to acquire wealth to take back home to their families.
In 1849, there were 791 Chinese in California; by 1850 that number had
risen to 4,025.
Fiddletown grew during this time to include the
largest Chinatown in California outside of San Francisco, with a population
of between 2,000 and 5,000 Chinese. Among the Chinese who came in
the year 1850 was a twenty-five year old man from Toisan, China named Yee
Fung Cheung. Descended from Yee Fung Shen, an eminent counselor during
the Song Dynasty (420-479 AD.), he came from a distinguished family.
Like his father, Yee Fung Cheung was an herbal doctor, but like countless
others who had heard the fabulous stories, the lure of gold proved irresistible.
Yee Fung Cheung did not prospect for gold long,
however, as he was discouraged by discriminatory laws placed on Chinese
miners and by the difficulty in gold mining. Instead, he established
a medical practice as an herb doctor and built the original rammed-adobe
earth store in 1851. Yee Fung Cheung attended to the medical needs
of the Chinese miners, and later to those of the Chinese laborers working
on the transcontinental railroad. At various times, he also operated
herb shops in Sacramento and Virginia City, Nevada.
While practicing in Sacramento, Yee Fung Cheung
produced “a famous cure.” In 1862, Governor Leland Stanford’s wife
lay dying from a severe pulmonary disorder. After conventional medical
treatments failed to restore her health, the Stanford’s Chinese cook went
to the Chinese section of Sacramento searching for the famous herbalist
and found Yee Fung Cheung playing a game of mahjong at the Wah Hing grocery
store. Hearing about Mrs. Stanford’s illness, Yee ran to his shop
and brewed an elixir that ultimately saved her. The primary herb
in the concoction was later identified as “majaung,” a natural source of
ephedrine commonly prescribed for pulmonary diseases. Not knowing
his real name, the governor’s staff called Yee Fung Cheung, Dr. Wah Hing
after the store he was found in. It was the name that non-Chinese
were to call Yee Fung Cheung for the rest of his life.
Evidence of Yee Fung Cheung’s practice is still
on display in the store museum. Visitors can view his office, with
its wooden bed for examining patients, and his desk on which rest an abacus
and wooden mortar and pestle. Cabinets contain labeled glass vials,
jars once filled with herbal medicines, and such tools of trade as an old
stethoscope and straight razors. On one wall is a cabinet of 25 drawers,
with Chinese characters on each to identify the contents.
“The drawers are the heart of the store, because
they contained herbs dispensed by Dr. Yee,” says museum docent Gail Schifsky.
“Each drawer is divided into eight or more sections, as a type of file
cabinet for the herbs, many of which were shipped from China.”
The store reveals much about Chinese culture during
the late 1800s. A decorated altar indented into one wall, for instance,
was used for prayer by the store’s residents. Above each door and
entryway throughout the building hang three decorated paper strips.
The Chinese believed the strips prevented evil spirits from entering, but
perforations in the strips allowed good spirits to pass. Other artifacts
include Chinese coins, Chinaware, and pottery, books, and pamphlets, sticks
and cards used in Chinese gambling, and an opium pipe.
After mining activity slowed, many Chinese remained
in the area, and Yee Fung Cheung maintained a good business. In 1880,
he employed Chew Kee as a full-time assistant to help run the herb store.
In 1904, Yee Fung Cheung, the California pioneer
and famous herbal doctor, retired and returned to China, where he passed
away in 1907. His son, Dr. T. Wah Hing sent for his nine-year-old
nephew to join him in the United States. That young man was Henry
Yee, the son of Yee Lun Wo, who had stayed in China. Yee Fung Cheung’s
family continued to live and work in California for the next four generations.
Today Yee Fung Cheung’s direct descendants live in the Sacramento area;
among them are dentists and physicians who continue the family tradition
in medicine.
Yee Fung Cheung’s original adobe building, the Chew
Kee Store, still stands in Fiddletown. It was fully restored in 1988
through the combined efforts of the State of California, the Fiddletown
Preservation Society, and Yee Fung’s great-grandson, Dr. Herbert Yee.
The store is included in the National Register of Historic Places as part
of the Fiddletown Historic District. Containing many of its original
artifacts, it is open to the public as an historical museum.
How to get there.
The Chew Kee Store, located six miles east
of Plymouth is found by taking the Fiddletown Road from Highway 49.
The museum is staffed by docents from the Fiddletown Preservation Society
and open for visits and tours on Saturdays from noon to 4 p.m. during April
to October, or by appointment. Contact Fiddletown Preservation Society,
P.O. Box 53, Fiddletown, CA 95629.
A visit to Chew Kee Store can be part of an
outing to nearby historic Mother Lode towns in Amador County such as Plymouth,
Drytown, Amador City, Sutter Creek, and Jackson and Volcano; or as part
of a wine country tour of wineries of the Shenandoah Valley northeast of
Plymouth. Lodging and a private campground are available in Plymouth.
Motels or bed and breakfast inns can by found in the towns mentioned, and
camping is available at Chaw-Se Indian Grinding Rock State Historic Park,
two miles south of Volcano.
References
Rieger, Ted. “A Mother Lode Link to Chinese History.” Sierra
Heritage (Sept/Oct
1991):47 (4 pages).
Chin, Charlie. “Yee Fung Cheung, California Pioneer.” California
Council for the
Humanities’ “Rediscovering California at 150.”